Wallpaper construction process specification and post-remediation knowledge

Preparation Phase

1. Wall Preparation

Before applying wallpaper, make sure the wall is in good condition. If there are any cracks or seams, use wall putty mixed with white glue (vinyl acetate resin) to fill them. Once the seams are repaired, let it dry. If the wall has loose dust or powder, sand it down to create a smooth surface. However, if the wall is too smooth, it may not hold the adhesive well—so sanding is necessary before applying the wallpaper. After these steps, apply a base coat to protect the wall and prevent moisture, salt, and alkali from seeping into the wallpaper, which can cause mold and damage over time.

2. Preparing the Paste

The paste used for wallpaper is typically a mix of wallpaper glue powder and white glue. The consistency should be just right—thick enough to brush on but not too sticky. You can adjust the thickness by adding water. The wallpaper powder is usually made from natural starch, while the white glue is a synthetic resin. Depending on the type of wallpaper, the ratio of white glue to powder may vary. For example, cloth-based wallpapers require a thicker paste, often using 15 ounces of white glue per 15 ounces of powder. Special pastes for wall cloths can cover up to 5 square meters per kilogram.

3. Cutting the Wallpaper

Unroll the wallpaper and check the pattern, direction, and alignment. Start from the top of the floor tile as your reference point. Measure the height of the wall, then lay the wallpaper on a flat surface with the adhesive side up and the pattern side down. Use a pencil to mark the length, then cut it with scissors. Make sure to leave an extra 30–50 mm at both ends for trimming, and lay the pieces flat for easy application.

Mid-Construction Process

Soak a roller in the prepared paste for about 30 seconds. When applying the glue, roll in one direction only, and angle the roller at 45 degrees to avoid wrinkles. Avoid rolling back and forth, as this can cause creases. Apply the glue smoothly and evenly, holding the roller in one hand and keeping the other hand steady on the uncoated area. After the main application, use a small brush to apply a thin layer of special glue (a 1:1 mix of powder and white glue) along the edges of the wallpaper.

Once the wallpaper is on the wall, use a plastic scraper to press out any air bubbles, especially for vinyl wallpapers that are more water-resistant. If excess glue comes out, wipe it clean with a damp sponge. Be careful not to use a hard scraper, as it might damage the surface, causing issues like fading or visible seams. For high-quality textile wallpapers, use a short brush and be cautious not to get glue on the surface. If glue accidentally touches the surface, clean it immediately—once dried, it’s nearly impossible to remove without damaging the wallpaper.

Final Inspection and Fixes

After installation, check the following:

1. Are the seams aligned and not curling?
2. Is there any bubble under the wallpaper?
3. Does the pattern match correctly?
4. Are there any creases or uneven areas?

Common Fixes:

• Loose Seams: Use a knife to lift the seam, inject glue into the gap, and smooth it with a scraper. Wipe away any excess glue.
• Bubbles: Cut the bubble with a utility knife, inject glue, and smooth it with a flat tool. Wipe off the remaining glue.
• Mismatched Pattern: This may occur due to structural issues like foundation settling. Adjust the placement or reapply the paper if needed.
• Creases: Cut the crease with a utility knife, add glue, and smooth it with a roller. If it doesn’t flatten, use the “refill” method.
• Wet Stains: These are usually not caused by the wallpaper itself. Check the wall for possible issues and consult an expert if needed.
• Black Spots: These often indicate moisture or mold problems. Remove the wallpaper, treat the affected area, and apply a mold-proof solution before reapplying.